What It’s Like to Backpack the Goodwater Loop in Texas

A starry sky was partially covered by clouds above me. Walking away from the warmth of the campfire to my tiny tent, I shuddered from the cold and wrapped my down jacket more tightly around me. This was my first experience backpacking, and I was deep in the heart of Central Texas, far from my usual comforts.

This all started when a good friend and fellow native Texan proposed a one-night backpacking loop in central Texas. I’d never backpacked before, and I certainly didn’t know about any backpacking destinations in Texas at the time. 

But when I checked out the Goodwater Loop on the San Gabriel River Trail, my interest was piqued. My friend and I started putting together the details and logistics for what would be my very first backpacking trip. We’d have to drive a few hours south from our hometown near Fort Worth, and park at the trailhead by Lake Georgetown, just north of Austin. 

The Goodwater Loop is close enough to civilization, and as I’d later find out, there are actually plenty of other incredible backpacking spots in Texas. But for my first backpacking trip, this charming and moderately challenging loop would turn out to be quite the adventure.

Why the Goodwater Loop?

I’d been camping in North Texas plenty of times before. Just a night or two, plus some day hikes here and there, nothing more. But going for an overnight backpacking trip, having to pack all of our gear, food, water filters, tents, etc., was a completely new challenge for me. 

Luckily, my friend was experienced with backpacking, and he’d even gone to other multi-day trails in Texas. As he explained, the Goodwater Loop is great for beginner backpackers because it’s relatively short (about 26 miles), near water (Lake Georgetown), and not too far of a drive from the Fort Worth area.

The Goodwater Loop is a straightforward trail. It circles the lake, and there are a couple of places to camp along the trail. There’s potential to spot Texas wildlife, like white-tailed deer, armadillos, raccoons, foxes, herons, hawks, and even vultures.

As a beginner, this loop was accessible to me but still posed an exciting endeavor. The 26 miles that wrap around the lake would be quite the distance, which we’d split into two days of about six hours of hiking per day. Plus, the terrain is fairly easy, with some rolling hills and little up-and-downs along the way. 

It didn’t feel too intimidating to me because of how close we’d be to major cities in case of emergencies, and we’d have cell service most of the time. Austin and Georgetown are quite close to the Goodwater Loop, and we could call emergency services if needed. Maybe it was overkill to consider all these precautions, but as a first-timer in this hobby, my mind was reeling at all the things that could go horribly wrong in the Texas wilderness.

Tackling the Goodwater Loop as a Beginner

I didn’t have a tent, hiking poles, technical clothing, water filters, or any other backpacking gear to succeed on my own on this trail. Fortunately, my friend had extras of everything. And since we were going in the springtime, the weather was mild, so we didn’t need heavy winter clothes. 

On the other hand, we also wouldn’t be roasting alive under a hot summer Texas sun. Backpacking in Texas can be brutal if you go in the summer. Venturing out in March was a convenient, safe time to go in terms of weather. 

I packed everything I could think of to be well-prepared for this two-day backpacking loop. Band-aids, creams, sunscreen, nail clippers, a lighter, a pocket knife, extra socks, light gloves, and a beanie.

While I packed, I couldn’t help but picture us out there in the middle of the trail with nothing but whatever we brought in our packs. I tried to balance my desire to have all the “just in case” items with the need to keep my backpack a reasonable weight.

Starting Out on the Trail & First Impressions

After a three-hour drive south from DFW on Interstate 35, nearly all the way to Austin, we arrived at the trailhead and stepped out of the car into a noticeably different climate. Clouds covered the morning sky, and the air felt crisper and cooler than it had in Fort Worth.

We put on our fleece jackets for the cold air and pulled out our packs from the car. Adjusting our hiking poles, we looked around and noticed there were already a couple of other cars at the trailhead. I felt comforted by this sight, given that it meant we’d have at least some company on this giant loop around Lake Georgetown. 

The start of the Goodwater Loop was innocent enough. Overcast by the gray clouds hanging low in the sky, dark green bushes and trees seemed to swallow the dirt trail that started after a very clear sign that read “San Gabriel River Trail / Goodwater Loop.”

The ground felt soft, and the dirt trail was simple enough, but the vegetation that surrounded us made me feel completely immersed in nature. Low shrubs and hardy oak and juniper trees that are signature features in the Central Texas ecosystem hugged the trail as we made our way along.

Over the next few hours, we traveled step by step with our heavy backpacks full of water and food and tents and supplies through juniper forests mixed with prairie grasslands. The beauty of this Texas wilderness gave me such a sense of peace. Here and there, through the thick of the trees, we could see pretty views of Lake Georgetown.

What surprised me about the terrain was that it turned out to be more varied than I expected, the farther along we went. Up until that point, I’d only experienced certain parts of the terrain and landscape in Texas, so seeing all that nature up close was exciting.

Over the course of hours of walking along the meandering path, we started to notice the colors of different rocks and limestone. We noticed how some areas were greener than others, and sometimes we’d hear critters scurrying through the bushes. 

Despite the Goodwater Loop’s proximity to Austin, it felt increasingly remote when we got a few miles into the trail. We didn’t see a single person for hours. It was just an endless rhythm of walking with our packs and poles around this little lake in the middle of our humongous state.

A lot of people think of Texas as vast, empty, flat land, but this trail gave us a different feel. We were totally immersed in a rich ecosystem that deserves exploration.

Camping on the Goodwater Loop & Campfire with Fellow Backpackers

After a relatively tranquil 14 miles of walking under the cloudy Texas sky, we finally reached the Sawyer campsite on the opposite side of the lake. We saw a few other tents already set up there, and placed our tents at a respectful distance, zipper doors facing the lake. 

The temperature dropped considerably as the sun went down, and we were left to bundle up as we put together our meager backpacking-style dinners. My friend brought his tiny backpacking stove, while I had non-cookable food: tortillas with packaged tuna. 

After the sun had completely gone down and darkness swept over the camp, we saw our neighbors lighting up a campfire in the middle of the campsite. They invited us over, generous enough to share the fire and even some snacks. Enjoying the camaraderie of this night with these kind strangers was a huge part of what made the Goodwater Loop backpacking trip unforgettable. 

Exiting the Goodwater Loop

The next day, we woke up to a frigid morning and a fresh coat of dew covering the campsite. After eating a light breakfast, we packed away all of our things along with our tents and started hiking once again. The trail curved left and right, following the rugged shoreline of Lake Georgetown.

We were both a bit sore from carrying our backpacks for several hours the day before, but the fresh weather and the thought of getting a hot meal after finishing our trip kept us motivated. On the way out, I was happy to have worn long hiking pants to protect me from some prickly brush we had to squeeze through in one section. Meanwhile, the clouds stayed consistent, threatening rain but thankfully never dropping any.

The final two miles stretched on longer than expected, especially given that we’d run out of snacks. We were almost done with our mini adventure in the Texas wilderness.

And as we finally made it back to the trailhead and threw our dirty packs in the trunk, we decided it was time for a meal—a classic fast-food choice in Texas: Whataburger. It was the perfect reward after those long 26 miles.

Do I Recommend the Goodwater Loop to First-Time Backpackers?

I’m beyond happy to have experienced Texas backpacking for the first time on the Goodwater Loop. Just one overnight on this enchanting looped trail is an excellent way to start a backpacking hobby (or addiction, as mine turned out to be). 

The Goodwater Loop is centrally located in Texas, close to major cities, and well-established, which made it a great option for me. But I have to say, for beginners, you’ve got to respect the mileage. It was important that my friend and I were prepared for the rain and chilly weather, and that we planned ahead and informed friends and family of our whereabouts.

It’s sure not easy. But backpacking is never entirely easy; there’s always planning and physical/mental effort required. Not to mention you’ve got to be aware of the sometimes incredibly spontaneous Texas weather. Storms and weather changes can be unpredictable, and it’s best to prepare for whatever may come.

Whether you’re just visiting Texas or you’ve been here for a while but want to try backpacking for the first time, I really recommend the Goodwater Loop as an accessible and enjoyable starting point. It’s a real introduction to the world of backpacking and a memorable way to experience some of the natural beauty in our great state of Texas.